With an autumnal snap in the air and much shorter days a girl’s mind naturally turns to slow-cooked meals and rich flavors.
I’ve recently discovered a new small artisan butcher here in West Seattle called The Swinery. I’m sure they’re getting a lot of flu shot jokes – but seriously folks - with their clean white tiled walls, gleaming display cases and heart felt enthusiasm for local, sustainable food, this tiny storefront is a little slice of Heaven! I was told my small purchase of 1# of pork belly began a very good life on the Washington peninsula foraging, and grazing wide open acres. A slow, brothy simmer all afternoon seasoned with soy sauce, star anise, cinnamon, and garlic transformed the little morsel into a delicious appetizer served with homemade scallion rolls with good friends on a sunset deck with a view across Puget Sound back toward the same region this little piggy began. Yep, it was as good as it sounds!
From my latest book:
The French refer to rich meats – such as pork, duck, goose, and rabbit – cooked and preserve in fat as a confit, which literally translates as “to preserve.” In other recipes in this section, economical cuts of meat are gently cooked in fat and wine or broth and aromatic seasonings until meltingly tender, then shredded or processed to a coarse paste – rillettes, to the French. Poached fish or shellfish, being less fatty and more delicately flavored, may be prepared in a similar manner, using butter to preserve.
In each instance, fat forms a protective seal to keep air and bacteria out of the finished preserves. At one time a kitchen art born of necessity to create lasting food stores, today these preparations are all about infusing flavor and richness. As Michael Ruhlman states in his great book Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing, “Having solved the survival issue, we have the luxury to think about pleasure, about refinement.”
These deliciously unctuous preparations are often identified as “potted,” alluding to the jars or crocks they are traditionally stored in. Put up in small servings, these admittedly indulgent treats are completely portable -0 perfect for picnics and gifting.
From Canning & Preserving Your Own Harvest, by Carla Emery & Lorene Edwards Forkner, 2009 Sasquatch Books.
In addition to house-made Pork Rillettes, The Swinery also carries a lighter version made with chicken. Here’s my recipe for your own house-made version:
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Pork Rillettes
Rillettes are traditionally made with pork shoulder, an inexpensive and somewhat fatty cut of meat. This recipe calls for lean pork loin—a cut that can be somewhat shy on taste—transforming it into a rich, deeply flavored spread. Again, the process is flexible and may include fatty or lean cuts of pork, or poultry legs and thighs, or both. Serve rillettes with crusty bread and cornichon pickles for a light snack or an impressive first course.
Season: Any time
Yield: 5 to 6 cups
Store: Refrigerator (6 months), freezer (1 year)
3 pounds boneless, fatty pork shoulder or 2 1/2 pounds lean pork loin and 1 pound pork fat
1 medium onion, studded with 5 cloves
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 small bunch fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon whole allspice
2 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns, cracked
Water or white wine or veal stock
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Preheat oven to 275°F.
Cut the pork (and fat if using) into small cubes and combine with the onion, salt, thyme, allspice, bay leaves, and peppercorns in a heavy 6-quart stockpot or Dutch oven. Add water (or a mix of water, wine, and/or stock) to cover and bring to a simmer over medium heat.
Place the pot, covered, in the oven and cook until the meat is tender and falling apart, at least 4 hours. The liquid will have reduced by half and the fat will be completely melted.
Remove the pork to a large bowl to cool; strain the remaining liquid fat and reserve. When the pork is cool enough to handle, pick through it to remove the bay leaves and any apparent whole spices. Using two forks, pull the meat into fine shreds. Alternatively, you can transfer the pork to the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and mix on low speed until it is finely shredded.
Taste the pork and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add enough of the reserved liquid fat to create a creamy, spreadable consistency. Pack into individual ramekins or small serving crocks and place in the refrigerator to chill overnight.
The next day, scoop off some of the reserved fat, melt again over low heat, and pour a 1/4-inch layer over the top of the cooled rillettes, making sure the fat comes into unbroken contact with the sides of the containers for a complete seal. Return to the refrigerator for a least a couple of days to allow the flavors to ripen.
To serve, scrape off the top layer of fat and serve at room temperature for the fullest flavor. Refrigerate any leftovers and consume within 1 week. For long-term storage, wrap the containers tightly in foil and refrigerate or freeze.
